From Paris to Caballito: The Frenchman Who Conquered Buenos Aires with His Cult Croissants

Amid the unmistakable aroma of croissants and naturally fermented baguettes, Johan Cymermann mentally travels to Montmartre, the Parisian neighborhood where he grew up. Now, in the heat of his bakery’s oven on a beautiful corner of Caballito, steps from Parque Centenario, he repeats the same scene: kneading, baking, and sharing. For years, «Co-Pain» has been a cult spot for lovers of French products. It supplies restaurants, cafés, and continues to expand with new locations. The latest opening was in Colegiales. «I never imagined this growth,» he confesses.

The story begins far away, in Paris. Johan grew up in an Arab and Jewish family. Every gathering was a culinary feast. He remembers his grandmother’s grape leaves she prepared in Martinique, the Caribbean island where part of his family comes from. He also enjoyed tropical fruits like passion fruit and guava. He finished high school, studied finance and international trade at a bilingual Franco-American university. In 2006, with a college friend, he packed his bags to explore new cultures. He arrived in Argentina by chance. «We wanted a change of scenery. We chose Buenos Aires because it had nice weather, warm people, and a growing economy,» he recalls. What started as a temporary experience became his life project.

In Palermo, in the same building, he met Silvana, a neighbor who stole his heart. «I’m a romantic. As a kid, I dreamed of love like in the movies. With my partner, we repeat my parents’ story: they lived in the same building in Paris and met as neighbors,» he says with a laugh. Three years later they married, and twins arrived: Nina and Ilan. Before getting into gastronomy, Johan worked in real estate, first in Montmartre and then in Buenos Aires. But the desire to start his own business beat stronger every day.

He thought for over two years about what to do until one day he walked into a small French bakery near Parque Centenario. He was drawn by the aroma of freshly baked bread and croissants. Missing those scents from his homeland, he became a regular. One day, the French baker, with whom he had struck up a friendship, told him he wanted to return to his country. The opportunity appeared at just the right moment. «It was one of the first French bakeries in the city, with quality products. The place was humble but always had a line of people on weekends. I started talking to him about buying the business and keeping his two employees. It was risky because I wasn’t a baker or pastry chef,» he admits.

Convinced, in July 2015 he took over the business. He changed the name: Co-Pain. «When I discovered the meaning – ‘the one who shares bread with you’ – it clicked. Friend and sharing bread seemed like a hit for the brand,» he recalls. The first years were tough. Johan learned the trade from scratch, managing teams and the administrative side. He also had to maintain the clientele and consistent quality. Growth was rapid: he moved the production plant to 300 square meters and began supplying cafés, hotels, and restaurants. In 2016, with the burger boom, he surprised everyone with a special Viennese bread. «It was a hit. It has butter, milk, and is super fluffy,» he says. Today, more than 60% of his daily production goes to third parties with laminated dough, croissant, pain au chocolat, and breads.

The business expanded to different neighborhoods, always with the essence: French recipes with an Argentine touch. «All recipes are traditional French, but we use local ingredients and labor. Over time we added Argentine products like medialunas, palmeritas, and cheese scones. We want people to feel at home,» he says. Among the most requested products are the baguette and country bread, both naturally fermented. The croissant takes the top spot. Some regulars claim it’s the best in Buenos Aires. «I don’t say it because they’re ours, but they are among the best in the country. They are crispy, with different laminated layers and unbeatable flavor. We look for the best butter; the croissant has more than 40% butter,» he asserts.

There are also pain au chocolat (with two chocolate sticks) and macarons. In autumn, the moist and fluffy mandarin pudding and almond flour «Financiers» with red fruits. For Johan, the «Chausson» is his favorite: puff pastry turnovers filled with apple compote. «In French it means ‘slipper’ because of its shape. When you eat it, the puff pastry melts in your mouth and mixes with the compote. It’s delicious,» he says. The latest novelties include pistachio roll, chestnut and blue cheese bread, and a variety of focaccias.

Co-Pain has been visited by personalities such as Carla Peterson, Fernán Mirás, Rusherking, Ana DeVin, Pamela Villar, and Alejandro Awada. Johan never imagined his life linked to gastronomy. «I studied finance and international trade. I worked in real estate. I wanted to start my own business and life led me this way,» he admits. Every day he enjoys simple things: a croissant (sometimes with homemade strawberry jam) or a baguette spread with butter and topped with salami. «Over time I’ve become a bit Argentine,» he says with a laugh, he who fell deeply in love with Buenos Aires.